I've been reading Ruth Reichel for as long as I can remember. Chef, food critic, magazine editor, author and lecturer has been involved in the American food scene since the 1960's. She was born in 1948 in New York City, the daughter of German immigrants, who became one of the most influential people in food and culture in our country.
She is on tour now, plugging her latest book, Save Me The Plums. I saw her interviewed, followed by a Q and A, in La Jolla last week. It was an interesting evening for a foodie like me.
Ruth married in the 1960's and moved to Berkeley with her husband. The culinary revolution of the 1970's was just about to take off, and Ruth was there and became part of it. Alice Waters was there, and as Ruth told us, her favorite restaurant in all the world is still Chez Panisse.
Ruth spent most of her career as food critic for the LA Times and the New York Times. She talks in many of her books about the great lengths she would go to eat at a restaurant undetected. She would use disguises, as she felt this was the way to get a sample of what the restaurant was really like, not what they would do special for a food critic.
She was also the editor of Gourmet Magazine for many years, until the closing of Conde Nast (parent company) in 2009. She had never managed a large group of people before, but Gourmet was desperate to land her as their new editor, and she took the job. She knew nothing about magazine editing, but with the help of supportive staff, she learned and lead. Unfortunately the magazine could not survive the technology of the 21st century. The owner of Conde Nast, Si Newhouse, did not change with the times, and could never fully commit to a digital presence.
Ruth lives in the Berkshires today and continues to write and lecture. She is a delight to listen to. What a treat to hear from one of the leaders of the culinary revolution! Now I may have to buy her new book and read it.
Monday, December 16, 2019
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