As long as we were going to be in East Los Angeles to see the new Sixth Street Viaduct, I decided we should eat dinner in one of the many ethnic restaurants in Boyle Heights. Boyle Heights is known to have some of the best Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles, especially tacos. Lots of taco trucks are found throughout the city, but I didn't think my mom would enjoy dinner from a taco truck in Boyle Heights, so we went to Guisano's, on Cesar Chavez Blvd, just a cut above a taco truck, but boy oh boy, was the food good. The only thing on the menu is tacos, about a dozen different varieties, from nopales (vegetarian, cactus) to chicken mole. I sampled a few, my mom had a quesedilla. They also have tamales, and all the Mexican drinks like horchata. The total for our dinner, with tip, was $15. I'm not kidding. The place was spotless, the people friendly. I was impressed.
Boyle Heights has always been a multi-ethnic enclave. Immigrants flocking to Los Angeles have often found their way to Boyle Heights. Over the years it was heavily Japanese, Jewish, Russian, Armenian, African American and more. Small businesses, houses of worship and organizations helped immigrants feel at home. Still, the area wasn't immune to the pressures of the outside world. The neighborhood was redlined by banks and local officials. They deemed it hazardous to investors.
In 1942, President FDR signed an Executive Order leading to the mass incarceration of Japanese-Americans. This had a devastating effect on Boyle Heights, which had a significant Japanese-American population. It is estimated that 1/3 of the senior high class at Roosevelt High was incarcerated.
Activism has always been intertwined with the history of Boyle Heights. Jewish bakers formed their own union in the 1920's and Mexican-American students at Roosevelt walked out of class in 1968 to protest education inequality.
Today, Boyle Heights is primarily a Latino neighborhood. It is lively and filled with hope. Recently new art galleries and coffee houses have sprung up, and the locals don't like it. They fear it will become gentrified and ultimately lead to the displacement of locals.
Would I go there at night? Probably not, but during the day it is perfectly fine. The people are nice, helpful, and the neighborhood is full of flavor. Speaking of flavor, most people think that Canter's Delicatessen on Fairfax is the original restaurant. Not so. In 1931, Canter's Brothers Delicatessen opened in Boyle Heights, to serve the many Jewish immigrants living there. Who knew?
I'm a bit adventurous, so a trip to Boyle Heights might not be for everyone, but for those that do go, they will be rewarded with some great food and a chance to meet and see some friendly residents.
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