Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Offbeat Travel: A Trip to Cuba






In 1987, when I had all about I could take of teaching in LAUSD, I became a travel agent, something I continue to do to this day. There were many opportunities for agents to travel near and far, and I took advantage of this as much as possible. In the year 2000, my friend Elaine and I decided to journey to Cuba. This was at a time when travel to Cuba was tight, and the rules for foreigners were ridgedly enforced by the Bush administration.

I had sent a film crew to Havana in the late 1990's so I had some idea of the red tape that was involved in getting the proper permits. Elaine and I went with permits from a ministry in Los Angeles. We brought medicine and clothes to a church in Havana. There are several categories of people allowed to visit Cuba, religous and medical being two of them. We spent several weeks obtaining the proper documentation, meanwhile planning our trip so we would be ready to go when our papers were in order.

We made most of our arrangements through a Canadian tour operator, as there are no restrictions for Canadian tourists, and Elaine has both Canadian and American citizenship. Most people that go to Cuba connect through either Cancun or Mexico City, as there are no direct flights from the U.S. One can also fly direct from Canada.

We arrived in Havana, went through customs without a hitch, and were on our way. There were many four and five star hotels in the city by then, and our accomodations were excellent. Much of the historic center of Havana has been restored, and several European governments have gambled a lot of money on the fact that Havana will again become a world class destination. Old Havana is the place to visit. One site that no visitor misses is the Hotel Nationale, the old hangout of Earnest Hemingway. It's loaded with pictures of memorabilia from the 1950's.

Once the hot spot of the Caribbean and popular destination for Americans, Cuba has now been declared a World Heritage Area by UNESCO with many plazas having buildings dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. Old Havana's side streets, narrow and cobble-stone, are another picture, one of urban decay. The walls of many of the buildings are literally propped up with wood. Walking these narrow streets one is struck by the absence of commodity shops. There is very little to buy, and they have stamps for all basic necessities. In other words, everything is rationed. When you do see a shop with clothing, the merchandise is 20 years old.

As poor as the Cuban people are, they are the happiest people you can imagine. There are musicians everywhere, even dancers in colorful clothes hoping to make a few pennies by entertaining passers by. I was struck by the fact that there is almost no anti American sentiment. Almost everyone you meet has a relative in Miami and their hope is to get there one day.

Where did all the old Chevys and Oldsmobiles of the 1950's go? Why, Cuba of course. They have vintage car shows several times a year. This is a big attraction for visitors from all countries. They also have music, music, music. Every bar and restaurant has music at night, dancing too. It's a happy place to be.

Open air markets offer an array of items, from food to crafts, to original art. When I was there I bought several oil paintings for under $20 each. Most artists are untrained but their paintings emote such feeling for life in Cuba. You can't help but love their raw, primitive work.

Food varies from poor to excellent. Many families use their homes as restaurants, and serve dinner in the backyard, dining room or patio every night. These were among our best meals, and it was so personal, as we could talk to the family members we were visiting.

Our tour guide was a young woman of 18, a college student, another person we met who hoped to come to the U.S. one day. She recited information from a prepared statement, and would not offer personal opinion on Castro, good or bad. We gave her a big tip at the end of the week, probably more money than she makes in several months. We were told that at the time doctors made $20 per month.
Beaches in Cuba are beautiful, and although we did not visit them, there are five star resorts along the coast, just as you would find in many other Caribbean islands. All in all it is a wonderful vacation, a real eye opener as to what life under a repressive dictatorship is like.

I recommend Cuba for anyone wanting to see this island before it becomes overpopulated with American style hotels and restaurants. It's beautiful, reasonable and very interesting. It will also give you a great appreciation for the American way of life.

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